Most chefs I know refer to brunch disdainfully as the b-word. Aside from the fact that they generally are not morning people, their aversion comes down to this: Eggs can mean trouble.

Diners are ultra-picky about eggs. Coordinating their preparation (two at a time, in various styles, to precise degrees of doneness) requires finesse and the kind of patience that usually is in short supply after an arduous Saturday night.

Eggs and the people who eat them can be unforgiving; the former might go from great to awful in an instant, and the latter might have no problem sending back mistakes with the flick of a hand. If you want to test a chef’s mettle, hand him eggs, not steaks.

The same goes for a host. That eggs are tricky doesn’t disqualify them as party fare. On the contrary, they represent a good way to strut your skills, provided you prepare the eggs in a way that allows for some kind of control.

The inspiration for today’s fall brunch for eight came to me at a sunny lunch last June in the courtyard terrace of Le Relais du Parc in Paris, a colony in acclaimed chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant empire. For a first course, the waiter brought an oeuf en cocotte baked with spinach and chanterelle mushrooms. With its pumpkin-colored yolk, perfectly set white and earthy accompaniments, the egg was certainly delicious. And its cunning presentation — in a glass canning jar with a hinged lid — was an effect I planned to borrow.

I had forgotten how good baked eggs could be and how easy they were to make. My grandmother called them shirred. Just put some fillings, if desired, in ramekins, top them with eggs and a bit of cream, and bake them in a water bath for 10 minutes or so. I resolved right then and there to plan a brunch menu around them, making a mental note to include some version of Ducasse’s dish. That would be the story behind the meal, the kind of conversational reference point that makes a gathering more interesting. It was also a convenient ploy to brag about my summer vacation.

To make the brunch more manageable, I let the hinged-jar idea go. Originally I thought it a good plan to use tall eight-ounce jars and serve individual eggs with three kinds of fillings. That was a way to offer a vegetarian option and mix things up, but it proved unwieldy (and painful; I burned myself on the rims of the too-tall jars while trying to scoop out the eggs).

For the redo, wide-mouth eight-ounce jars with two-egg servings worked perfectly. Two options, one vegetarian, sufficed: curried spinach-shiitake mushroom and bacon-leek-Gruyere cheese.

For a side dish, I opted to serve hash brown potatoes. Have you noticed how many bad renditions of them are out there? I know it’s a matter of personal taste, but I like the potatoes crispy, not mushy, and chunky, not shredded. No peppers, please. The onions: slightly caramelized but not burnt and not white. The whole lot needs to be seasoned far beyond salt and pepper.

It has taken me 20 years to get hash browns just right. Here’s what I have figured out: The onions and potatoes must be cooked separately to ensure both are spot-on perfect. If you cook them together, you run the risk that the moisture in the onions will make the potatoes too soft. Saute the onions until golden brown, then mix them with garlic and thyme. The potatoes should preferably be day-old baked, cubed russets; deep-fry them in canola oil until crisp. Then unite the main components and finish with smoked and sweet paprikas, onion and garlic powders, cayenne and black peppers, and salt. Optimally, hash browns should be served immediately after they’re made.

A meal that features eggs has to be timed correctly, because eggs cannot wait. That means either having the eggs and potatoes working at the same time or, if you must, cooking the potatoes first and keeping them warm (either held in a warming drawer or reheated quickly in a separate skillet). So don’t hesitate to ask for help.

Brunch should be casual and interactive but still do-ahead where possible. For this one, I started with a small cheese, fruit and charcuterie assortment. Mimosas to drink. I served a side salad of radicchio, oranges and pepitas (toasted pumpkin seeds) with the main course and ended with a dessert of poached pears. All of that was prepped in advance. Before guests arrived, I assembled the jars of eggs and their fillings so they were ready for the oven.

Because the eggs are the stars of this show, buy the very best local farm-fresh variety you can find.

Radicchio and Orange Salad

8 servings. MAKE AHEAD: Section the oranges, make the vinaigrette and prep the salad early in the day, but dress the salad just before serving.

For the salad:

2 medium oranges

1 large (8 ounces) head radicchio, cut in half, cored and shredded (3 cups)

1 scallion, white and light-green parts, chopped

Leaves and stems from 10 sprigs of cilantro, chopped (1/4 cup)

1/4 cup pumpkin seeds (see note; may substitute toasted sunflower seeds)

For the vinaigrette:

3 tablespoons orange juice (from the 2 oranges)

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

To prep the oranges for the salad: Use a fine grater (preferably rasp-style, such as a Microplane) to zest one of the oranges (about a teaspoon) and reserve.

Cut both oranges into supremes: Use a knife to slice off the ends of the fruit. Place the oranges on a cutting board and slice off their peels and pith, leaving as much of the fruit intact as possible. Cut between the membranes to separate the segments; place them in a bowl. Squeeze any juice from the ends of the fruit and from the segmented membranes into a separate bowl, and reserve.

Combine the radicchio, reserved orange zest and supremes, scallions, cilantro and pumpkin seeds in a medium bowl. If serving soon, cover with damp paper towels and refrigerate until ready to use; otherwise, keep the toasted pumpkin seeds separate, at room temperature.

For the vinaigrette: Combine the reserved orange juice, oil, vinegar, sugar, salt and the pepper to taste in a liquid measuring cup; whisk to combine.

Use all of the vinaigrette to dress the salad; divide among individual plates and serve immediately.

Note: To toast pumpkin seeds, toss them with 1 tablespoon of canola oil and spread in a single layer on a lined baking sheet. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 6 to 8 minutes; allow to cool completely.

Per serving: 64 calories, 2 g protein, 7 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar.

Hash Browns

8 servings. MAKE AHEAD: Bake the potatoes the day before. The onions can be sauteed a few hours ahead of time and reheated. Finished hash browns will hold in a warm oven for half an hour, but they are best served immediately.

For the spice mix:

1/2 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

For the hash browns:

2 3/4 cups canola oil

2 medium (1 pound) yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

Leaves from sprigs of thyme (2 teaspoons)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 large (3 pounds) russet potatoes, baked, cooled, peeled and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch cubes

For the spice mix: Combine the paprikas, onion and garlic powders, salt, and black and cayenne peppers in a small bowl.

For the hash browns: Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Make sure the potatoes are at room temperature before you fry them.

Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat until the oil begins to shimmer. Add the onions and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until they are golden. Reduce the heat to medium; add the garlic, thyme, salt and pepper and cook for a couple of minutes. The onions should be deep golden brown. Drain them on the paper-towel-lined plate and keep them warm in the oven while you prepare the potatoes.

Place the cubed potatoes in a large bowl. Grease them lightly with nonstick cooking oil spray and toss to coat, taking care not to break them. Line a separate large bowl with paper towels.

Heat the remaining 2 1/2 cups of oil in a large skillet over high heat until the oil shimmers. Use a skimmer to carefully lower the potatoes into the hot oil, distributing them in a single, flat layer. Cook undisturbed for 7 minutes; that will allow the oil to crisp the outside of the potatoes so that they can be stirred and still remain intact.

Use a slotted spoon to separate any potato cubes that might be stuck together; then use the spoon to move the potatoes around so they brown on all sides. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until the potatoes are deep golden brown.

To assemble: Transfer the potatoes to the paper towel-lined bowl; blot them dry. Discard the paper towels, then add the spice mix and stir to coat evenly. Add the warm onions and combine. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 24 calories, 5 g protein, 42 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 294 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar.

Eggs en Cocotte Two Ways

8 servings. MAKE AHEAD: The curried spinach mixture and the bacon, leek and cheese mixture can be made the day before and brought to room temperature before the eggs are baked.

For the curried spinach (4 servings):

7 cups (11 ounces) baby spinach

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

5 ounces sliced shiitake mushrooms

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup heavy cream

For the bacon filling (4 servings):

1 large leek (root end trimmed), white and light-green part only (1 1/4 cups)

3 ounces (about 1 cup) finely grated Gruyere cheese

6 ounces thick-sliced bacon, cooked, drained and cut into 1/2-inch lengthwise strips

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

For the eggs:

16 large eggs

8 teaspoons heavy cream

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

32 mouillettes, for serving (see note)

To make the spinach filling: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring until the leaves are completely wilted. Drain and rinse under cold running water until cooled.

Working in two batches, use your hands to squeeze all of the water from the spinach. Chop the spinach coarsely on a cutting board to yield 3/4 cup.

Heat the butter in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the shiitakes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until well browned, stirring often. Add the garlic, curry powder, salt and pepper, stirring to combine.

Add the cooked spinach, then the cream, which will bubble up and seem to reduce immediately. Remove from the heat and let cool.

To make the bacon filling: Cut the leek lengthwise, then crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Place the slices in a large bowl of water and use your fingers to break up the pieces, releasing any grit. Let the leeks float to the top and then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a separate bowl.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the leeks and cook for 3 minutes, until softened. Drain and rinse them under cold running water until cooled. Use your hands to squeeze all of the water from the leeks and place them in a medium bowl to yield about 1/2 cup. Add the Gruyere, cooked bacon, salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix well.

To make the eggs: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Boil a kettle of water. Have ready eight 8-ounce ramekins or wide-mouth glass canning jars (without lids), and a roasting pan large enough to hold them in a single layer.

Divide the spinach filling and the bacon filling evenly among 4 ramekins each. Deposit the insides of 2 raw eggs in each ramekin. Spoon a teaspoon of heavy cream over the egg whites in each ramekin, leaving the yolks exposed. Season each ramekin lightly with salt and pepper. Place the ramekins in the roasting pan. Transfer the pan with the ramekins to the middle rack of the oven. Pour in enough of the boiled water to come one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 11 to 14 minutes or until the whites are set (opaque and firm when tested with the tip of a paring knife) but the yolks are still runny. Serve immediately, with mouillettes on the side.

Note: To make mouillettes, trim the crust from a rectangular brioche loaf or cut a traditional round brioche loaf into a rectangle. (Use the leftovers for crumbs or freeze them for stuffing or bread pudding.) Cut the rectangle into sticks, approximately 4 1/2 by 3/4 by 3/4 inches. Place the sticks on a baking sheet and bake them in a 350-degree preheated oven for 10 minutes, until golden brown. Turn the sticks over and bake for 5 minutes. If desired, brush the sticks lightly with softened butter.

Per serving with curried spinach (without mouillettes): 327 calories, 15 g protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 26 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 478 mg cholesterol, 588 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar.

Per serving with bacon filling (without mouillettes): 464 calories, 32 g protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 34 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 491 mg cholesterol, 1161 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar.

Poached Pears and Mascarpone in Asian Syrup

8 servings. MAKE AHEAD: Poach the pears up to 2 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate them in their syrup.

8 firm, medium (3 1/2 pounds) pears, such as red, Bartlett or Bosc

1 bottle (750 ml) white wine, such as chardonnay

4 cups water

2 cups sugar

1 stalk lemon grass, trimmed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices

1-inch piece (unpeeled) ginger root, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices

4 wide strips orange peel

6 whole star anise

4 green cardamom pods, crushed

1 cinnamon stick

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3/4 cup mascarpone cheese

4 store-bought scones or almond croissants, trimmed into 2 3/4-inch rounds and cut in half horizontally (optional)

1 ounce (1/3 cup) sliced almonds, toasted (see note)

Mint sprigs, for garnish

Peel the pears, leaving the stems intact. Use a melon-baller to core them from the bottom. If needed, trim the bottoms of the pears so the fruit can stand upright.

Line a large plate with a double thickness of paper towels. Cut out a round of parchment paper that will fit inside a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and set the paper aside.

Combine the wine, water, sugar, lemon grass, ginger, orange peel, star anise, cardamom, cinnamon stick and crushed red pepper flakes in the saucepan over medium-high heat; bring just to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved and a syrup forms.

Place the pears in the syrup on their sides; cover them with the round of parchment paper and place a plate (just large enough to fit inside) on top of the paper to keep the pears submerged. Let the syrup return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Cover with a lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes or until the blade of a paring knife pierces the pears with slight resistance. Take care not to let the pears get too soft; they should be cooked through but still able to stand up. Transfer the pears to the paper towel-lined plate to cool upright.

To finish the syrup, bring it to a boil over medium-high heat; cook for about 30 minutes, until it reduces to a thickened, golden state. Remove from the heat and cool completely, then transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use. Before serving, strain the syrup and discard any solids. There should be 2 1/2 cups.

To fill the pears, put the mascarpone cheese into a quart-size plastic food storage bag. Seal the bag and cut 1/2 inch from a bottom corner. Using the bag as a pastry bag, fill each pear with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the mascarpone. Cover the pears with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

To serve: If using the scone or croissant halves, place each one cut side up at the center of a shallow soup bowl. Top each half with a stuffed pear. Ladle 1/4 cup of the syrup over the pear. Sprinkle toasted almond slices around each pear and garnish with a mint sprig. (Alternatively, the pears may be served on a platter, reserving most of the syrup to serve on the side.)

Note: To toast almonds, place them in a heavy skillet, stirring or shaking over medium heat for 1 or 2 minutes, until just lightly browned.

Per serving: 424 calories, 3 g protein, 68 g carbohydrates, 11 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 13 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 57 g sugar.